The Chesapeake Bay Bridge

So....once it started raining last night, it surely kept it up. Off and on all night it rained, and continued on until about 11 this morning. We couldn't let that stop us, so we bundled up, turned the windshield wipers on, and headed northeast. We followed the Atlantic shoreline for several miles, hoping to find a beach access point that had parking. Nope. Houses, condos, and hotels had the area all sewn up. Add in the occasional mini-golf course, bungee-jumping and zipline location, and you'll see that getting to the beach is a bit of a struggle. The rv park maintains a modest parking area just a block or so from the beach for use by guests with proper identification, but as it was raining this morning we passed on the walk to the beach.

US 60 pretty much parallels the coastline until it intersects with US 13 going north and east across Chesapeake Bay to eastern Virginia. As 60 turns west, just before getting to 13, it passes through First Landing State Park, where, on April 26, 1607, Christopher Newport and the Virginia Company colonists first stepped ashore prior to establishing themselves in Jamestown. The road through the park is beautiful, even on a rainy morning!

US 13 heads north across the Bay, but first we had to pay the $15 one-way toll. Yep, $15 to return also!

The bridge/tunnel complex has two "islands" where the road either dives down into a tunnel, or rises out of one. The reason for the two different types of road is, of course, simple: Bridges are much cheaper to build, so that approach is used wherever possible, but tunnels are necessary to provide an unimpeded route for ships into and out of the Hampton Roads shipping lanes, and of course, for military vessels going into and out of Newport News, one of the Navy's most important shipyards.

We pulled over and stopped on the first "island" to get a photo of where Chesapeake Bay joins the Atlantic Ocean. Quite a sight.

Back aboard the cross-bay road, we dived down into the first tunnel.

The tunnels were constructed by excavating a huge trench in the bottom of the bay, packing two feet of rock on the bottom, and then slowly sinking a prefab metal tube down onto the rock. All the excavation and rock work were done from the surface using draglines and excavators, and were guided by divers. Each 50 foot section has an inner and an outer shell, with concrete filling the void. Ends were welded on to make the unit watertight, and were cut out after the section was joined to the previous section using hydraulic rams. More welding and more concrete, and away they went! It took a month to set each of the 15 sections that make up the tunnels, and each was set to a tolerance of 1"!

And then we climbed back into the sunshine (well, a little anyway).

After drifting down into, and then out of, the second tunnel, we drove on north.

We ended up in the quaint burg of Cape Charles. This photo doesn't even come close to doing the streets in Cape Charles justice, but just look at those Crepe Myrtles! The roads and lanes were lined with huge plants in full bloom!

Established in 1884 by railroad and ferry interests as a shipping terminus, Cape Charles by 1912 was handling 2,500,00 tons of freight a year. The towns' claim to fame these days is that cement factory that ships bulk cement via rail up and down Virginia's Eastern Shore. There are a number of interesting homes along the waterfront.

We had lunch at The Shanty, a local seafood hangout. A dozen on the half-shell, peel-n-eat shrimp, clam dip with toast points cooked to perfection, and a house salad completed the meal. Extraordinary food and excellent service! Along with a patio table overlooking the marina....what more could you want>

On the return trip across Chesapeake Bay, we began to notice the gulls perched on the light poles. It was almost as if they could count, because there would be one bird on a light, then two, and then three! Smart little beggars!

There is much more to see and do in Virginia Beach, but, as usual, we become annoyed at the commercialism of nice places like this. Tomorrow we'll try to exit the park and continue north. I say "try" because the people in the neighboring site, who are from Quebec, have erected a "pop-up" canopy within inches of the drivers window on our coach. If I were to exit without bringing in the slide, the pop-up would be trashed, along with parts of our motorhome. Yesterday, when I suggested removal on Monday, the gentleman suddenly couldn't understand English. We'll see how this works out!

Virginia Beach, VA

We spent most of yesterday praying for a thunderstorm to suddenly appear in Kill Devil Hills, both to settle the dust in the campground and hopefully drop the temperature. No luck.

Today is a completely different story. We left OBX just after 10 this morning, since we only had 96 miles to our next destination. US 158 heads north out of KDH, crosses over Currituck Sound, and settles in to a nice four-lane highway. It being Saturday, a great number of visitors were arriving to enjoy the 90+ degree heat and the pristine beaches! This photo was taken 17 miles from the Outer Banks, where a steady stream of cars inched along toward the coast. Going in our direction, north, the traffic was light but steady.

Driving through Harbinger, Grandy, Coinjock and Currituck got us to the Virginia state line. At that point we got on the Chesapeake Expressway (toll) and headed north.

Passing  the city of Chesapeake, we joined I-64 south of Norfolk. A few miles north, and we turned east on I-264 toward Virginia Beach. Here's where it gets interesting: This all looked so simple on Google Maps yesterday, but today we found out....not so. The Interstates are a confusing mess of spaghetti in this area as far as I'm concerned! Just about the time we knew where we were going, some construction blocked a few lanes and we were lost again. The dash GPS was yelling, Donna was looking at the map on the iPad, and I was relying on yesterdays memory to get through the mess! Add to that an unexpected Downtown Tunnel under the Elizabeth River where we had to stop and be inspected. Propane tank off....check. Back on the Interstate. Whew! Eventually, though, at exit 22, Birdneck Rd, we bailed off and headed for our destination, the Holiday Trav-l-Park on General Booth Blvd. This rv park is specifically designed to stuff as many rv's into as little space as possible. With over 800 sites in a location just a few miles from the beach, boardwalks, and theme parks, it is a prime spot for families to spend a few days. At $69 a night, however, maybe not a long time! We are in site 34, one of the cheap seats without cable TV. We do have full hookups, though, but there are so many trees that OTA tv channels are unavailable as is satellite reception. Oh, well, might have to actually talk to each other! Wifi is a pay-per-use system that we won't subscribe to.

About 4 this afternoon, the skies darkened and the thunder started. A few sprinkles later, a great jagged bolt of lightning shot across the sky, and the ka-boom shook the motorhome! Then the rain really started. As I write this, it has been raining steadily for about 3 hours. The good news is that I was able to wash the front of the motorhome using only rainwater! We hit a number of huge butterflies today that left splats some 3 to 4 inches across, and of course, one of those was directly in front of the driver!

The temperature has moderated to 80 degrees, and strangely the weather app says that the humidity is only 84%. Hmmm.

Our only reason to be in Virginia Beach is to cross Chesapeake Bay using the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel. Good friends mentioned it, and we wanted to take Nessie through the tunnel/bridge system last year, but couldn't make it happen. The CBBT is the world's largest bridge-tunnel complex and incorporates a system of tunnels connected to islands. But more on that tomorrow!

A Good End to OBX

We spent today getting the hang of going to the laundromat (ugh), getting Sasha's nails done (canine pedicure?), and mailing a few letters. All well and good, and about all we could handle in the heat. Yesterday it was 97, felt like 115. Today it was a lot cooler, only 95, feels like 103.

In any case, we ended our stay in Kill Devil Hills with dinner at Sam and Omies. This local restaurant has been in business since 1937, serving local fishermen, tradespeople, and the occasional tourist. It continues to be a local hangout, as we saw a lot of "hi, Joe" and "How was your week, Debbie?" going around.

Donna started with a glass of Sweet Tea. She's addicted!

The two specials tonight were Prime Rib with Shrimp, mashed potatoes and greens. Yummy!

And Shrimp Jambalaya with Garlic Bread. Likewise yummy!

We.ve enjoyed our time here in the Outer Banks, but have been somewhat disappointed with the commercialism of the area. $7 Chocolate milkshakes, $10 lighthouse tours, and $5.00 a load laundromats are just a bit too much for us. We've met people from as far west as Ohio that have saved all year for a week in a condo with a narrow view of the beach between four other condo complexes. Well, I guess that's why Nessie has wheels. We'll be moving on tomorrow!

Of Good and Better, I think...

I ranted on about our mechanical troubles yesterday, so please forgive me. Stuff happens, and we have to deal with it. The appliance repairman called last night about 9, just after he got home and ran us through a couple of diagnostic checks on the washing machine. He took the information and called Whirlpool, the manufacturer, this morning and checked back with us. The news was not good. Whirlpool's approach was to start throwing parts at the machine until something worked. Not a good approach. Chuck also told us that at a minimum the charges would be about 2/3 of the cost of a new machine. Not good. So we've thanked him and decided to purchase a new washing machine as soon as we return home in the late fall. It's laundromat time for the next 3 months!

Just after talking to Chuck about the washer, we checked in with Newmar, the coach manufacturer, to get some more info about fixing the inoperable slide out. They directed us to a repair facility in Chattanooga, TN, which we called, and had a very nice conversation with Mike. We came away with a good feeling about the shops' abilities, and made a tentative appointment for August, when we'll be in that area. Alligator number two out of the picture!

By now it was time for brunch, so we checked into the Stackem High restaurant down the street. The Stackem High is a modified cafeteria style establishment, but with awesome biscuits and sausage gravy! I didn't really say that, did I, Julie? Check your blood pressure, Gary....

 A bit south of Nags Head, we got to the Cape Hatteras National Seashore. This preserved area is home to all manner of nesting wildlife, and is kept as pristine as possible.

In several places, however, the public is allowed to enjoy the cool Atlantic water. Today it was just a perfect 88 degrees in the water!

A large portion of Pea Island, in the Wildlife Refuge, is a memorial to Charles Kuralt, a North Carolina native who filmed many of his "On the Road" segments in and around the Outer Banks. He was renowned for promoting the preservation of this area.

Eventually we came to the Cape Hatteras Light Station, our goal for the day.

Arguably one of the most photographed Lighthouses in the country, it's distinctive black and white striping sets it apart.

Normally the lighthouse is open for climbing. The view is said to be wonderful from the top. Today, however, it was closed due to high temperatures. When the "feels like" temp reaches 103, the lighthouse is closed because it is a strenuous climb of some 252 steps to the top. Add in the lack of a/c and a bunch of sweaty bodies, and you have a recipe for disaster. The base was open, so we snapped a photo looking up the spiral staircase.

When the lighthouse was built in 1870 it was 1,500 feet from the shoreline. By 1999, the shifting sand had reduced that distance to 150 feet. This diminished the structural integrity of the lighthouse, and the decision was made to move it inland. A road was constructed to the new location, and a system of rails was laid on top. The lighthouse was raised 6 feet into the air by more than 100 jacks controlled by a computerized central panel. Once raised, Hillman rollers were placed between the base cribbing and the rails. A series of long jacks was placed behind the base of the lighthouse, and began to push. At a maximum of 5 feet at a time, 23 days was required to move it 2,900 feet to a location again safely 1,500 feet from the shoreline!

The Hillman rollers don't seem like much, but with enough of them, you can move....well, a lighthouse.

So long, Cape Hatteras Light Station!

Waiting...

Our bedroom slide out continues to malfunction, so we have left it in the stowed position so that at least we can move the coach. We are concerned that if we extend the slide, we won't be able to retract it! We contacted Route 12 RV Repair on Monday and made arrangements to met with Percy this morning. Well....the morning came and went, and no Percy, and no phone call. Hmmm. We had previously contacted McGeorge RV in Ashland, Virginia, just north of Richmond, our next long stop, but were told that since we did not purchase the rv from them, they couldn't service it until November. Not happy. So it's back to the phone tomorrow for a conversation with the manufacturer.

The parts for the non functional washing machine arrived today, a day later than the overnight service that we paid for (!). This was a result of much internet/You Tube research, and seemed to fit the situation to a T. Unfortunately, it did not, so the machine still doesn't work. I called several local appliance repair shops today, and all but one were scared off by the motorhome aspect of the problem. I'm still expecting a call from another repairman, whose wife returned our call and was very, very helpful. Hope this one can help.

In any case, we took off about 1 this afternoon, heading north on Hwy 12, stopping in Kill Devil Hills and Kitty Hawk for a look at the Atlantic side beach.

Hundreds, if not thousands of people were on the beach escaping the 90+ temperatures.

After a stop in the town of Duck (a bird sanctuary, strangely enough) for lunch at DuckDuck Burger, we continued north to the end of the road a few miles north of Corolla. At that point, the road veers onto the beach, with 4wd vehicles required. Our Jeep is 4wd, but we elected not to explore the beach due to the lateness of the hour and the concern that we were not prepared for off-roading. The beach access road continues to the Mustang Horse Sanctuary, and we would have enjoyed seeing the wild horses romp in and about the beach. Hundreds of people take guided tours of the area, and we understand that it's beautiful.

Corolla is also home to the Carrituck Beach Lighthouse. Now part of a lovely park complex, the lighthouse is open to the public for climbing, and the view from the top is spectacular they tell us. Unfortunately, the lighthouse is not air-conditioned, and with 20 to 30 people climbing at a time, we just couldn't bring ourselves to go to the top!

The lighthouse is constructed entirely from brick, with a unique octagonal base.

With a fond look up at the lighthouse, we threaded our way through the Segway riders, bicyclists and joggers to return to Kill Devil Hills.

On the way home, we marveled at the number of beach houses lining the coastline. Both on the Atlantic side and the Inlet side, rows upon rows of homes, condos, and apartments stand guard to prevent the casual tourist from accidentally reaching the beach!

Back in KDH, the temp is still well above 80, with a predicted low tonite of 78. On it goes....

First in Flight

We left the farmlands of eastern North Carolina this morning, and managed to drive 102 miles to the Outer Banks. This long strip of barrier island runs from Ocracoke, North Carolina in the south to just south of Virginia Beach, Virginia, and includes Cape Hatteras, Nags Head, Kill Devil Hills, and Kitty Hawk.

US 64 runs due east across Virginia Dare Bridge over Croatan Sound. Sound familiar? Virginia Dare was the first child born in the colonies, and Croatan is the name given to a now extinct tribe of the Algonquin native americans that lived in the area. Several spellings of the name exist, but the most famous is the word "Croatoan" that was carved into a tree in 1590 after the Roanoke colony disappeared.

We soon arrived in Nags Head. Legend has it that horses and mules had lights hung around their necks to draw ships into rocks where the cargo could be stolen.

We arrived at OBX Campground early in the afternoon. Located in Kill Devil Hills, the park has many long term residents and reflects limited attention to maintenance. The road into the park, about 1/2 mile or so, is dusty, pot-holed gravel, which effectively made yesterday's motorhome wash a joke. We have been assigned site 2, which is very satellite friendly (read....no trees), and it's certainly large enough for Nessie's length. The pad is gravel, with a fringe of grass, and the utilities are adequate. The wifi at this site is unusable, so we're hooked up to our cell hotspot.

One important advantage that this park has is it's proximity to the site of the Wright Brothers first flight. After setting up, we decided to brave the "feels like" temperature of 107, with 57% humidity, and take a look. The monument is operated by the Park Service, and has a small, but very nice Visitors Center. The memorial itself is located on a large hill that once was just a very big sand dune where the Wright Brothers honed their flight skills using gliders launched from the top of the sand dune. More than a thousand practice flights were performed in 1901 and 1902, using the constant wind and isolation of the area to perfect the design of their craft.

Returning to Kill Devil Hills in 1903, with a craft powered by a lightweight gasoline engine designed by the brothers, they were finally ready to test their theories on December 17th, 1903. The brothers used a flat sandy area at the foot of the hill they had used for glider flight for their powered experiment. In the distance, the wooden hanger and living quarters have been recreated and stand just to the right of the large rock marking the launch point of the aircraft.

The Wright Brothers used a metal rail and a dolly with wheels that supported the air craft to launch the craft. The sand was nice to land on, but very difficult to launch from. This boulder marks the exact spot where Orville and Wilbur's craft left the ground.

The boulder has a plaque inset that was placed on the 25th anniversary of the flight. Among the dignitaries attending was Amelia Earhart!

At 10:35 am, Orville Wright released the restraining wire, and, with Orville running alongside to balance the craft, ran down the launch rail. Orville fought the controls as he flew into a 27 mph wind, but he hit the sand 120 feet from the rail after a 12 second flight. History had been made!

A total of four flights were made that day, with the brothers alternating at the controls. The second flight traveled 175 feet in 12 seconds, the third 200 feet in 15 seconds, and the fourth flight traveled 852 feet and lasted 59 seconds. The Wright Brothers had achieved their goal. Two bicycle mechanics with no engineering experience, but with an uncanny ability to see through to the solution to a problem, had made history. The Wright machine would never fly again-after the last flight it was caught by a gust of wind, rolled over, and damaged beyond repair.

The Wright Brothers devised methods for controlling roll, yaw, and pitch that are still used (with much refinement, of course). The air age was born.

The hot temperatures began to abate in the late afternoon and evening, with a brief thunderstorm blowing through. The low temp tonite is predicted to be 78. Looks like the air conditioners will continue to run again this evening.