Chiricahua Country

We've stopped for two nights in Willcox, AZ, to explore the beauty of Chiracahua country.  We've driven east and west on I-10 several times, zooming past this area, and so we decided to "just do it".  We pulled into Magic Circle RV Park Sunday afternoon and settled in for a quiet evening. The owners had told us of an historical district in town, so we jumped in Gus and took off. The major attraction of Willcox, AZ, is that it's the home of Rex Allen, he of the unmistakable voice.  If you're from the fifties and sixties, you remember his voice on various Walt Disney Sunday night programs. Other than having Rex Allen Blvd, there's not much to downtown Willcox, but we located a grocery store and a gas station, the two most important landmarks in our traveling lives, it seems.

This morning, Monday April 6, we all piled into Gus (yes, even Sasha) and took off on the Magic Circle tour.  Leaving Willcox on Hwy 186, we headed to Chiricahua National Monument. This area is known for it's unique rock formations and beautiful countryside.

The first interesting thing that we saw as we drove into Bonita Canyon on the way to the Visitors Center was the site of Faraway Ranch.

Now part of the National Monument, the ranch buildings have been maintained as they were when they were donated to the government. Neil and Emma Erickson homesteaded here after their 1887 marriage. Neil was a Swedish immigrant who joined the US Cavalry and was stationed at Ft Bowie, just a few miles north of the ranch. Emma was also a Swedish immigrant who was a maid to the commander of the post. They met, and the rest is history. Neil wasn't much on farming, so after building the original small house, he took off for work in the mines, leaving Emma home with the kids. Management of Faraway Ranch eventually fell to his oldest child, Lillian.

Life at the ranch centered around cattle, but in 1917, "dudes" were brought to the ranch for a taste of real cowboy life. The guests were encouraged to help with the cattle, and they often did. Neil's last years were spent as a Forest Ranger, which eventually led to his passion to set aside this area for future generations. His dream came true with the creation of the National Monument, and eventually the designation as a National Wilderness Area, which will prevent future human impact on the Monument.

As we drove up the canyon to the Visitor's Center, we began to see the rock formations that make this such an awesome place.

The rock was laid down millions of years ago from "stuff" carried by volcanic clouds. Over time, cracks appeared, water got in, and erosion began, leaving these pillars and shapes for us to wonder at.

From Massai Point at elevation 6870, a "field" of pillars is visible in the distance.

On the way back down from the mountain, we noticed a sign pointing to a unique formation. Known as China Boy, it is one of the most spectacular formations in the park.

Back at Hwy 186, we headed south toward Hwy 181 and 191 toward the Cochise Stronghold. These highways comprise the "Magic Circle" when 191 returns to I-10 and eventually back to Willcox. In years past, a bicycle tour was held on this route, known as the Magic Circle 100 for the number of miles included in the ride.

We turned off Hwy 191 onto the road leading into the Cochise Stronghold. About 8 miles on a dirt road got us into the Stronghold.

The canyon is surrounded by formidable mountains and craggy rock formations. The military tactics of the day prevented the US Cavalry from using strategies that would have resulted in success, so Cochise was able to defend the area for years. Not to take anything away from Cochise, mind you, because his tactics were far advanced for the time.

A view from high in the Stronghold back toward the valley gives some idea of the remote location of the Stronghold.

An easy trail goes around a small campground suitable for tents and very small trailers. Along that trail we noticed that nature is slowly reclaiming this land tortured by so much tragedy.