Tuesday, July 19, 2016

The Big House

The largest attraction in the Asheville area, both in size and in tourist interest is the Biltmore House and Gardens. Today was our day to drift back to 1895 and try to imagine what life would have been like in the Gilded Age. The statistics are astounding: six years in construction; the largest privately owned house in the United States; 178,928 square feet; sixteen chimneys; 43 bathrooms and 33 bedrooms. A total of 250 rooms supported by three kitchens. In the 19th century, elevators, electricity, forced air heating, centrally controlled clocks, fire alarms and an intercom system were a novelty, but were an intimate part of Biltmore. Built by George Washington Vanderbilt, the grandson of Cornelius "Commodore" Vanderbilt, who built the family fortune, and still owned by one of Vanderbilts descendants, it required six years to complete the design by architect Richard Morris Hunt. The grounds and gardens were designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, who also designed Central Park in New York. His design incorporated the first use of managed forestry on the estates 8,000 acres straddling the French Broad River.

Our self-guided tour began at the foot of the Grand Lawn. A short 8 minute walk from the parking lot took us to our first look at this magnificent structure.


The main entrance displays the most impressive facade. Built of brick and steel, it is faced with Indiana limestone, carved and shaped in intricate and beautiful patterns.


Donna was particularly fond of the Lions flanking the entrance!


 Our tour began in the Winter Garden. Centrally located, this glass and wood room illuminates George's desire to integrate the house into the landscape. It also provides a wonderful space to escape the cold winter snows during the Christmas Holidays when the family was in residence.


Our next stop was the Banquet Hall. The seven-story high ceiling and Flemish tapestries from the 1500's were an impressive backdrop for up to 38 dinner guests. Smaller family groups often enjoyed 7 to 10 course meals at a smaller table near the giant triple fireplace. Dinners were elegant, with fine linens, china, family silver, and as many as five crystal wine glasses per person.


Entertainment was often provided by the 1916 Skinner pipe organ in the upper alcove. We were treated to an impromptu performance during our tour and it was every bit as entertaining as it must have been in the early 20th century! The air for the organ was provided through a system of ducts from an electric motor in the basement.


If I were to post all the pictures we took today, this blog would probably crash! From the Banquet Hall, we walked through the Breakfast Room, where lunch was often served, then into the Salon, designed to be a formal sitting room. The Music Room led into the Tapestry Gallery, where Flemish tapestries from the 1530's are displayed in a 90-foot long room. Guests enjoyed afternoon tea and music here.


Next came the Library, where priceless volumes were available for use. An unusual curved Library Ladder stands ready to reach those high shelves.


The Second Floor held the family bedrooms. A central Living Hall led to both Mr. Vanderbilt's bedroom as well as Mrs. Vanderbilt's bedroom. Mr. Vanderbilt's bedroom offered a commanding view of the estate, while the bedroom highlights his attention to detail, with gilded wallpaper and decorative locksets and sconces. The ceiling detail is magnificent!


Mr. Vanderbilt's wardrobe is filled with early 1900's clothing. Fashion at the time dictated correct clothing for every activity, so George Vanderbilt may have changed four to six times a day.

Mrs. Vanderbilt's bedroom is decorated in purple and gold fabrics and furnishings in the Louis XV style.


The Third Floor was the realm of Vanderbilt guests. The bedrooms were named for notable artists and artisans of the day, with a centrally located Living Hall where guests could come to read, listen to music, and unwind. In addition to family members, guests included diplomats, politicians, artists and writers.


In addition to the electric elevators, a circular stairs leads to the second and third floors, as well as to the roof. The stairs also lead to the basement.


Along the basement corridor, part of the thick foundation of the house is visible.


The basement, in addition to the kitchen, laundry, walk-in refrigerator, and servants quarters, also is the location of the bowling alley.


The (now empty) swimming pool.


And the gymnasium.


Back up the stairs and outside, we made our way to the gardens.


The flowers are abundant and beautiful!









From the exterior, the windows illuminating the circular stair define attention to detail. The exterior balustrades are built on extensions of the interior steps. The steps are made from Limestone, are tapered to match the curve of the stair, and extend through the wall, providing a strong, although narrow stair on the exterior so that exterior cleaning and maintenance can be accomplished.


As we took our last look at the Biltmore, storm clouds were gathering to the west.


On the meandering drive out of the estate, we passed the Bass Pond. A lovely, relaxing place to drop a line!


Arguably the most impressive house in the country, the Biltmore is a wonderful example of life in an  age when wealth was meant to be displayed. It is impossible to imagine that age from our perspective today, but we have our own opulent displays by the 1%'ers, don't we?

Monday, July 18, 2016

Blue Ridge Parkway, 300 to 390

We have several things to do in Asheville, NC, but one of the foremost is to drive portions of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Over 460 miles long, the Parkway stretches from Virginia to North Carolina, through some of the most beautiful scenery in the country. We entered the Parkway near milepost 390 and drove north. Our goal was Grandfather Mountain at milepost 300, but that didn't work out. More on that later.


The Parkway road is narrow, but fairly well maintained. It's twisty and curvy, as you would expect from a mountain road. Max speed is posted at 45, with slow curves and narrow bridges from time to time.


The road is dotted with scenic overlooks spaced close enough together to almost overwhelm the senses. One of our first stops gave us a classic view of the Blue Ridge Mountains stretching into the distance.


We had to stop at Graybeard Mountain overlook for obvious reasons, but quickly returned to the beauty of the Parkway!


Early in the Spring, millions of native Rhododendrons are in bloom! We found a few still showing their colors along the road. It must be an incredible sight to see all the flowers!


A five mile side trip at mile 355 took us to Mount Mitchell.


The parking lot is almost in the clouds!


But 300 yards (almost straight up) got us to the observation platform at the very top of the mountain.


The concrete floor of the circular observation tower shows where in the state the mountain is located.


The views were spectacular!




A pretty day with puffy clouds soon changed.


The clouds came drifting in, fighting with the wind rising out of the valley for a few minutes before finally enveloping the entire mountain top!


We continued north, enjoying the drive and the wonderful green, green, green landscape until we came to Grandfather Mountain. This is a famous rock outcropping with awesome views of three states. Unfortunately, the entrance to the park seems to be operated by a concessionaire, and the entrance fee is $20 per person! It was after 3 in the afternoon, so we decided that we wouldn't get our money's worth today, so we passed on visiting Grandfather Mountain. Sad.

We took a different route back to our camp, taking Highway 221 through Marion, Old Fort (home of Ethan Allen!), Black Mountain, and Swannanoa. We finally got home at about 5:30, after a 7 hour, 198 mile day trip. Whew!

Sunday, July 17, 2016

Fletcher, North Carolina

We pretty well exhausted all that Gaffney had to offer, so this morning we hitched up our britches and headed north into North Carolina.


Heading north on I-26, we caught our first glimpse of the Blue Ridge Mountains!


We pulled into Rutledge Lake RV Resort at about a cup of coffee after 12 noon. It was only 73 miles, so it went by in a hurry. We did "enjoy" driving over Saluda grade, with 7% grades in several places. At one point, we crossed over the Eastern Continental Divide at 2,330 feet. OK. We're in site 46, a nice wide pull-through site. The utilities work fine and the site is perfectly satellite friendly, as well as  having Spartanburg local tv channels available. Only drawback? Wifi is next to non-existent. We are near a restroom building with an antenna, but cannot connect. Oh well.

Since we had arrived so early in the afternoon, we decided to take a drive around the area. We chose Chimney Rock and Lake Lure as our destination for the afternoon. Twenty-seven miles later, we arrived, after going through the towns of Good Luck and Bat Cave. For the last few miles, the road followed the Broad River through a beautiful canyon.



Chimney Rock State Park is accessed by a curving, narrow mountain road. The rock can be seen from the halfway point, where a ticket booth is set up. At $15 per person to get to the trail up the rock, we decided to pass and just take a picture.


That's an American Flag on the top of the rock, with the trail going up the back side, we're told. The trail also goes to Bridalveil Falls, about a 1/4 mile beyond the rock.


Following a beautiful, shaded road, we continued on a few miles to Lake Lure.


The lake is very large, with many houseboats and ski boats. Today, the beach was very busy as well.


We entered a route into our GPS that would take us into downtown Asheville, which is just a few miles north of Fletcher. Not surprisingly, "Marilyn" decided to take us on the scenic route through Edneyville and Gerton, on unpaved roads!



Can you spell d-e-l-i-v-e-r-a-n-c-e?

The route took us over the Eastern Continental Divide again, this time at 2,880 feet, added about 30 miles to the journey, and was through some of the most beautiful country we've seen this year. Maybe it's because we have lived in the foothills of impressive mountain ranges for years, but this area really struck a cord with us. The Blue Ridge Parkway wanders through Asheville, and we intend to drive over a few miles of it while we're in the area. These mountains are just exactly like the pictures! Beautiful! Of course, the temperatures are a great deal cooler, being at about 88 this afternoon. We may not need the a/c this evening, which will be a first since we left Arizona last March!