Friday, May 7, 2021

Central City - Denver. Day Two

We woke up this morning wanting to explore a bit, so around the hill and down into the town of Central City we went.

Central City is in the heart of Colorado Mining Country, where "busts" and "booms" have left a honeycomb of underground tunnels, shafts, and timbers. Many abandoned mining operations still exist and visitors are warned to be careful. Central City was founded in 1859, and lies at an elevation of 8496. With an average population of 663 (who, it's claimed by a sign at the edge of town, have an average IQ of 101), it has "3 houses of worship, 7 gambling halls, 4 bears, 19 bars, 1 face on barroom floor, 1 opera house, 5 museums, 1 newspaper, 1 brewery, 3 troublemakers and no big shots". Central City and neighboring Blackhawk now survive on casinos, bringing in visitors from metro Denver.

Women played a huge part in the mining operations back in the day, with the most famous mine in the area being operated by women: The Coeur d'Alene. The building is maintained but not in operation.


Downtown Central City is a snapshot of life 150+ years ago.


A fire in the 1870's destroyed most of the town, but, as with so many towns of the era, was rebuilt with brick and stone. Almost all of the building in Central City and Blackhawk are essentially original with updated interiors.

After a tour of town, we took US6 east toward Golden, Colorado. Our destination was the Capitol Building downtown, but we got sidetracked by a sign pointing to Lookout Mountain and the grave of Buffalo Bill Cody. Eight miles of narrow, twisting road, complete with scores of hardy bicycle riders, brought us to the top of the mountain.

 
The town of Golden is in the center, with Denver over the hill.

Buffalo Bill and his wife are buried on top of the mountain at his request. Buffalo Bill Cody's will specified a site near Cody, Wyoming, but as he lay dying at his sister's house in Denver in 1917, he requested burial on Lookout Mountain. And so he lies today.


Surprised people in Cody began a controversy and so, several tons of concrete ensure that he stays exactly where he asked to be buried.


A custom of placing nickels on the grave began in 1923 when a group of Lakota Sioux, led by Spotted Weasel, a former performer with Buffalo Bill's Wild West, visited the grave. They put Indian head nickels on the grave to honor Buffalo Bill, The image on the nickel was that of Iron Tail, a long time friend of Cody and a performer in the Wild West. The tradition continues, however, we didn't participate (didn't have a nickel to our name).

Next on our tour of Denver was the State Capitol. The dome is covered with gold leaf donated by miners and is decorated inside with brass, onyx, marble and granite.





A statue of a Union Civil War soldier and his horse was defaced and toppled last year. Irate legislators immediately funded repairs. It remains to be seen if the statue will be returned to it's traditional place.


A medallion on the thirteenth step of the west entrance to the Capitol Building designates a unique location.


Twas getting late in the afternoon, and we had forty miles to drive home, so we made one more stop before heading west. A distant look at Mile High Stadium, where the Denver Broncos play football.



Back in Central City, dinner downtown was calling, so Yelp led us to Millies, upstairs in the Easy Street Casino. Decorated in the fashion of a bordello, we were the only patrons. Dinner was delicious, however, but we certainly felt strange. Had great service, though!


Leaving Millies, we looked up and saw a retaining wall made from mine timbers. It appears to be holding back a mountain that threatens to engulf Central City!


We have a couple of things on the agenda for tomorrow to wrap up our stay in Colorado.




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