Monday, August 10, 2015

East by Northeast

Pronounce it however you please, but Quoddy Head State Park is a wondrous place to visit.


This point of land is the easternmost point in the continental United States. The islands you see behind the lighthouse belong to Canada. West Quoddy Head Light was commissioned in 1808 and was among the first to use a fog bell and later a steam-powered foghorn. In 1858 the present red and white tower replaced the original structure. It is monitored and serviced by the US Coast Guard and still shines through its original third-order Fresnel lens. Its unique light pattern is: On for 2 seconds, Off for 2 seconds, On for 2 seconds, and then Off for 9 seconds. Each lighthouse has a special pattern of lighting so that boats offshore know where they are.


The Lighthouse looks out over the Bay of Fundy and gorgeous views of the Atlantic. The island visible  across the Grand Manan Channel is Grand Manan Island.





Sasha, Donna and I walked the Coast Guard Trail on the north side of the lighthouse, an easy 1 mile trail to the Quoddy Narrows through quiet, shaded forest.




Back out on US 1, we drove further east toward the town of Lubec, Maine, where we crossed the FDR Memorial Bridge onto Campobello Island in the Canadian province of New Brunswick. The border crossing was extremely easy and friendly, with only a few standard questions. I asked if vaccination papers were required for Sasha, but was told that since most pets get better care than their owners, it wasn't necessary!


Our goal on Campobello Island was two-fold. Our first destination was the Head Harbour Lightstation, at the extreme east end of the island. A trail goes to the light house, but is only usable at low tide. Nope, it didn't work for us. Particularly of concern was the set of rusty iron steps at each end of the path between the island proper and the spit where the light was located. Forty-five steps on each end over rocks and waves was a no-no!




But the view across Passamaquoddy Bay was spectacular.


Our second destination on the island was the FDR Campobello International Park.


Created as a joint venture between the United States and Canada, the 2,800-acre park memorializes the boyhood summer home of President Franklin Roosevelt and his family. Purchased in 1883 by FDR's father, James, as a summer escape from the New York heat of Hyde Park, Franklin spent most of his summers on the rugged island. From 1883, when he was one year old, until he was stricken with Polio in 1921, he sailed the bay and hiked the cliffs surrounding the island. Sailing was the primary activity of the family, but horseback riding, golf, swimming, bicycling, and shooting were enjoyed also. The visitors center and museum focuses on the years 1909 to 1921, when FDR and his family were able to spend summers in the "cottage". This was during the heyday of well-to-do families escaping to a summer retreat. Access to the island was by private yacht, steamship and train. Train trips from New York required 2 1/2 days, with a final leg by boat from Eastland, New Brunswick. Franklin proposed to Eleanor at the cottage, and they were married here. She looked wonderful in her wedding dress.


The front of the "cottage" is undergoing partial restoration, but the circular drive and high roof give a sense of what a wonderful place it was to spend a summer.


 The back of the house has a screened porch as well as an open deck.


And looks out over the Bay.


The living room looked out on the deck.


And the dining room opened to the screened porch.


The servants quarters were upstairs, and the kitchen was on the first floor.  Huge meals were prepared in this small kitchen for the family and guests. FDR's political advisor was a constant companion, while Eleanor entertained societal ladies.


A quick stop at the Family Fisheries restaurant for some Haddock, clams and scallops, and we were once again on our way.


After a fifteen minute long grilling by US Customs, we were allowed to begin the 90 mile long trip back to our campsite at Timberland RV in Trenton, Maine.

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