Hovenweep, Utah and Back

Hovenweep National Monument is located just a few miles from Four Corners, where Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and....(quick....what's the other one?) meet. It's 44 miles from Blanding through some of the most tortuous terrain on the planet. Some gravel road, some Reservation land, and no traffic finally gets you to the Monument.

Studies across the Four Corners region have produced information about cultures inhabiting this area over 13,000 years ago. Known as Paleo-Indians, these nomadic hunters roamed the plateaus and canyons hunting wild animals. At about 11,000 years ago, drier climate conditions displaced these people as animals moved to more hospitable areas. Then ancestral Pueblo people moved in and began to seek temporary shelter under canyon overhangs and in shallow alcoves. Using low dams to conserve water near springs led to more crops, and away from hunting. Somewhere about 1100, sophisticated villages developed, with architectural and engineering projects. by the late 1200's drought and overuse of resources forced abandonment of the region. The people moved south to the Rio Grande Valley, in New Mexico, and the Hopi mesas of Arizona.

The structural remains we saw today, therefor, are over 700 years old!

This structure is known as the Stronghold House due to it's fortress-like shape.

A bit further on a well marked trail we came across the Twin Towers.

This is known as the Eroded Boulder House because of the way it's tucked into the rock alcove.

The canyon contains scores of abandoned houses and/or remnants thereof.

It's impossible to imagine dozens of children scampering about the canyon today, but it was a more favorable place to live back in the day due to hard and constant work.

The trail around the canyon is about a mile and a half. Since the temp was approaching 95 deg F., we only walked about half way. We had left Sasha in the car, locked, with the engine running and the ac humming, so we felt comfortable doing the hike, but we began to feel the heat and wimped out.

Back in the car, we flipped a coin to determine the route home. Tails won, so we headed further east through open range toward Cortez, Colorado, 42 miles away over reservation roads.

We have a penchant for giving our vehicles names. Today we were talking very nicely to Lucy....please don't run out of gas!

The mountains were somehow beautiful and foreboding at the same time.

Out here the goats run loose. Where are they gonna go?

Approaching Cortez, the landscape changed dramatically. Evidence of early settlement gave way to expansive farms set in awesome valleys.

We ate a picnic lunch on the grass under a tree in front of the now closed Cortez Memorial Pool Complex. A dog walk and cheese and crackers washed down with Arnold Palmer iced tea and we had to flip that coin again. We kinda had a hankering for an iced coffee drink, so a Duck Duck Go search sent us to Midland Bean in Dove Creek on highway 491 north toward Monticello, Utah. Unfortunately, when we arrived at the Midland Bean, we didn't get anything to drink.

The area grows along of bean type crops, so.....I suggested we go inside to check it out but Sasha put an end to that.

So on our evening walk we enjoyed a perfect sunset to end a perfect day. One hundred seventy one miles through some of the most diverse countryside imaginable. Awesome place, this southeast Utah!

Fruita, Colorado to Blanding, Utah 177 miles

But first a postscript to the last post:

Our last night in Fruita was shared with Brian, his wife, and son. Brians' Mom and Dad from NorCal also showed up, being on a bit of a road trip. Brians Mom and Dad (in-Law) dropped in from their home in Glenwood Springs, Colorado, so we had a somewhat distanced party! Brian burnt a dozen chicken breasts and smoked some ribs to go with the salad, bread, and zucchini casserole. What a feast!

Of course, the conversation got nostalgic, and Brian and I shared some good memories.

The city of Fruita has just completed a huge park complex on land adjacent to the Colorado River, so after dinner we all took a walk. The sun was just setting, so the river view was wonderful and we were able to get a photo of Brian and his family. 13 year-old Elliot was not pleased!

And so the favor was returned.

Thursday morning we said (temporarily) goodbye to Colorado and hello to Utah.

We had been on Interstate 70 west for awhile, but turned off at Crescent Junction onto US 191 south toward Moab, Utah. The scenery hereabouts is wonderful!

We stopped at a Rest Stop near Hole in the Wall and I took a quick photo to remember the area.

And then walked around the motorhome!

Just south of Hole in the Wall (a tourist trap created years ago by an enterprising family by blasting tons of beautiful Utah sandstone into smithereens) we stopped for a photo of Wilson Arch. A couple of ambitious sorts had hiked to the base of the arch.

Seventy odd miles further south on 191 we pulled into the little burg of Blanding, known as the "Basecamp for Adventure", and Blue Mountain RV Park and Trading Post. Site 13. OK. Windy. Everything works and there aren't any trains! Perfect!

A good nights sleep and then.....

Jensen, Utah to Fruita, Colorado 116 miles

Ok, as far as miles go, it wasn't much of a trip, but our trip over Douglass Pass on CO Highway 139 was exciting. US 40 took us to the town of Dinosaur, which is the entrance to the eastern side of Dinosaur National Monument. From there, CO 64 got us to 139. A gradual rise from 5,900 feet to over 8,200 feet gave us a sense of confidence, but the downhill was steep and twisty. We generally check highway conditions in suspect areas, but couldn't find much intel on this one except to note that it was very challenging. Our alternative, and 100 mile longer, option, was to continue on 84 to the town of Meeker and then take CO 13 south to Rifle, Colorado, and Interstate 70. However, significant bridgework has closed the road to heavy vehicles, so we were obligated to find an alternate route. We don't have any photos of the highway over Douglass Pass because Donna had her head buried and her hands leaving fingerprints on the armrests! I was busy controlling a 45,000 pound vehicle as we negotiated switchbacks with a posted speed limit of 15 mph. At times the grade percentage was posted at 10% for 7 miles! All this on a two-lane road with no shoulder. Nice. However, after about 3 hours, we hit Interstate 70 at Loma, and drove a few miles east to Fruita, Colorado, and found Monument RV Park. Site 54 is narrow, but easy to get to, and will be just fine.

Saturday evening we spent a wonderful couple of hours with Brian and Kristina. Brian is one our son's best friends from high school and they have kept in touch over the years. We haven't seen him for ten years or so, so it was great to catch up. Brian was involved in the 1989 invasion of Panama and the removal of dictator Manuel Noriega. From there he was deployed to Iraq and participated in Operations Desert Storm and Desert Shield. His experiences there have led him to become a counselor to returning veterans and assisting with the transition back into civilian life. He works closely with the VA and several private organizations. He fulfills a vital role and we applaud him.

Sunday, the 26th, we spent the afternoon with Dave and LaShonna and their son Luke. Dave is another contemporary of our son, and has a successful business in the fiberoptic industry. He also has kept in close contact with our son, and it's wonderful to see him and his family. Dave and Brian seemed to spend as much time with us years ago as with their own families, so this has been a nostalgic visit. These are great men who have matured into successful members of society. While we had our doubts at times, they have restored our faith in our younger generation. They've done well!

The Western Slope of Colorado, that is, the area west of the Rockies, is an interesting area, transitioning from the arid deserts of Utah to the Rocky Mountains. One extremely interesting area just a few miles from Monument RV Park is the Colorado National Monument.

The 24 mile loop road into the Monument is, at best, a 35 mph road, and oversize vehicles are prohibited. but the views are outstanding! From about half way up the western entrance to the park, the entire Grand Valley is visible. Once a farming community, Grand Junction is now a cosmopolitan, diversified city, thanks to the influx of people from out of state. A neighbor here at the park is considering moving to the area, and went looking at houses on Monday. He related a tale about seeing a 2 bedroom, 1 bath house built in the '40's that sits on 2 acres of land. $720,000! The basement must double as a gold mine.

Great pinnacles and chasms are everywhere along this road. Almost too much to understand.

The road, as I said, is twisty, but not steep, so the drive is an easy one.

As with so many area in Utah/Colorado/Arizona, harder rock was formed on top of softer sandstone. As the softer material erodes away, a column is created, protected by a "hat".

Independence Monument stands alone and proud in the center of the National Monument. John Otto arrived here in 1907, and fought for preservation of the area for all to enjoy. In 1911, the National Monument was formed. John was the first to scale Independence Monument, but these days hundreds of climbers are challenged by it's steep walls and the last 20 feet that requires a backward climb. Every year on July 4th, an American Flag is planted on the top of the pinnacle.

Scenic overlooks at regular intervals along the road provide  place to view and wonder.

Nearing the end of the loop road, and near the highest point in the park at 6,640 feet, we came across Ute Canyon. On the west side, huge walls of sandstone boggle the mind.

These formations were called the "Coke Ovens" by early explorers due to their decided resemblance to coke ovens used in the east.

Once out of the park, a scenic byway called the Tour of the Moon runs along the base of the plateau. This is private land, just about covered with ranches and housing developments. It sure would be nice to have a view like this!

The day that the motorhome was being serviced we took a ride east to the town of Palisade. Known for it's fruit stands and peach orchards, we stopped to check it out. the bluff behind the town is, for obvious reasons, known as The Palisade.

Downtown Palisade would be a great place to explore and have lunch....in a more normal time.

The local bank has a sense of humor!

So, we've just about explored the Grand Junction area, at least the parts that are available in these crazy times, so our next stop will be back in Utah.

Petroglyphs

Our last day in Jensen. We spent it taking a short day trip north and west of Vernal to visit the site of some of the most visible petroglyphs in the state. So the brochure said.

Taking N 3500 W out of Vernal and then Dry Fork Canyon Road got us to our destination. But along the way we happened onto some interesting features.

On a tall cliff overlooking a farming valley we saw an American Flag that was originally painted on the rock in 1899. Since repainted, it still advises...."Remember the Maine."

There are dozens of ranches and farms throughout this little valley, and every one of them had an American Flag on display somewhere on the property. This was probably the most impressive, being high on a mountain behind an impressive house.

We were advised to turn into the McConkie Ranch and follow the signs. We were led to a rather inhospitable area.

A strenuous climb led us to the first petroglyph wall.

A snail? Why a snail? Maybe an alien spacecraft?

The trail was steep and rocky, so this cowboy bailed at about the 1/2 way point and scrambled down. Over and under, sideways and back. The rocks just got the best of me!

What an extraordinary location for a ranch!

On our return trip into town, we noticed this huge tree. Now, I'm not an arborist so I have no idea what kind of tree this is, but it is one large tree! The trunk branches out about 100' or so, I would guess. Amazing!

A storm was approaching so we beat feet back to town and stopped for a quick take out taco at Tacos el Guerro. Nice!

On the way back to Jensen, we got a shot of a large American Flag at the entrance to an oil drilling supply company.

The storm finally caught us and passed over, but left us with a beautiful memory of this area of Utah.

The poor cell phone camera couldn't decide what to focus on, but for several minutes we could see all seven colors in both rainbows!

We're leaving here tomorrow, the 25th to get into Colorado. Two of the best friends that our son had in high school (almost 30 years ago!) have established homes in Grand Junction. We hope to see them both and have a bit of work done on the motorhome while we're there. Then, the Good Lord willing, we'll get back into southern Utah.

Wish us luck, and stay safe, y'all!