Thursday, June 30, 2016

Augusta, Georgia

We spent yesterday, Wednesday, catching up with housekeeping and shopping. The evening was spent talking with some young people that were new to rv'ing. They are traveling nurses, and have a plan to visit the United States, while working 90 days at a time at various hospitals. They fill in for vacations, strikes, and at busy times. What a concept!

Today found us leaving Charleston, reluctantly, and heading some 145 miles west to Augusta, GA. Everyone has heard of Augusta, and we wanted to add to our Civil War knowledge by visiting. Our route could have been via I-26 and I-20, but we chose to take the scenic route and drive through the countryside on two-lane farm roads. Fortunately we didn't have to navigate any dirt roads today!

We're set up at Heritage RV Park on Wrightsboro Road, in site MH45. The park is in the process of updating, and our site is a very nice one with a concrete patio and a bit of grass. The interior roads are gravel/dirt, and the wifi is shaky, but ATT seems to work ok.

After setting up our home, we drove into downtown Augusta. Taking exit 200 off of I-20 on the south side of the Savannah River took us to River Watch Street, Broad Street, and Green Street in the historic district.


Churches, as you might expect have a large presence in Augusta.


And there were a lot of well kept older homes along Green Street, and while they weren't quite as impressive or numerous as those in Charleston, they were nonetheless very nice.




Augusta didn't suffer the degree of destruction that other cities did during the Civil War, so many of the homes date from the early 1800's. Augusta's businessmen did very well postbellum, during the rebuilding years.

This obelisk is dedicated to the signers of the Declaration of Independence and lies in the median strip along Broad Street.


The afternoon storms were building as we returned home, but Sasha and I got in a quick walk around the park!


We feel like we've already seen most of the historical district in Augusta, so we'll have to come up with something to do for the next few days! It's Thursday evening, and already a neighboring town is celebrating the Fourth with fireworks. I think we'll come up with something!

Wednesday, June 29, 2016

Of Carriages, Characters, and Co-incidences

It was hot and steamy on Tuesday, but since it was one of our last days in Charleston, we decided to go downtown and get a taste of history. Our journey took us to Classic Carriages, one of several companies providing carriage rides throughout the city.

We were given the best seat on the carriage as we left the barn...


Bud (the horse) and John (the guide) took us by some points of interest that we had not had a chance to visit. An area of town known as New Town has homes with lots and lots of ironwork. This particular home was completely rebuilt several years ago, and the original ironwork was saved and the new home designed around it.


Even though the homes exhibit a stately exterior, we found that the original inhabitants may not have been quite as pristine as the house is! An unscrupulous carpetbagger built this home after the Civil War.


At least one convention was in town (!).


Returning to the historic barn off of Market Street, Bud needed to cool down. He's reaching for a red bucket of water.


Remember the couple that we met in Savannah and joined in Hampton County for the Watermelon Festival? John, our guide, is from the town of Hampton, and had our friend Linda as a sixth grade math teacher! Somehow the conversation started about where we were all from, and we said that we were from the West Coast. John allowed as how he was a local boy, and there we went. he explained to the rest of the riders that "that's the way it is in South Carolina: we're all family!" Small world!


John is wearing a ribbon celebrating Carolina Day, marking the date of the first decisive victory during the Revolutionary War by the colonists.

Buds temporary home is this historic barn that has been a stable for as long as anyone could remember. Bud and his stablemates do three "runs" a day, with a long cool-down in between, and after three months are transported to a farm for a vacation!


In the midst of thousands of people, hundreds of cars, and 90 degree plus heat, this small flower manages to grow next to the sidewalk!


As I write this, on Wednesday morning, its our last day in Charleston. We need to do some shopping and such, so we won't do much in town. We'll be sorry to leave the city where so much history has occurred, including, John told us, the first game of golf in the United States was played.

We were blessed with a severe thunderstorm last evening, lowering the temperature from 96 to 76 immediately. More T-storms predicted for today, but clearing for our next journey tomorrow. Hope that's true!

Ft Sumter, South Carolina

Ft Sumter is but a fragile, ragged ghost of its former imposing self. It is a special place; a monument to the people who fought and died here. We had to visit.

A scale model in the Visitors Center shows the original outlines of the Fort. It stood fifty five feet above the water line on a man made island in the center of the entrance to Charleston Harbor. Construction was begun in 1829 as part of a series of coastal fortifications built by the United States after the War of 1812. It was still unfinished when first occupied in 1860. Ironically, 85 Federal troops took occupancy of the Fort on December 26, 1860, six days after South Carolina voted to leave the Union.


On December 20, 1860, South Carolina seceded from the Union. A result of the election of Abraham Lincoln as President a month before, the secession recognized that the North had elected "a man...whose opinions and purposes are hostile to slavery." Within six weeks, five other southern states had joined South Carolina, and by March, 1861, when Texas joined the Confederacy, nearly all the federal forts and navy yards in the seven seceding states had been seized by the new government. Ft. Sumter remained in Federal hands.

Ft. Sumter thus became a focal point of tensions between the North and South, as command of Union troops at nearby Fort Moultrie, Castle Pickney, and Fort Johnson were secretly moved to Fort Sumter. The Confederacy occupied and fortified these installations for the defense of Charleston, and began to turn back supply ships bound for Fort Sumter. By April 4, an immediate surrender and evacuation of Fort Sumter was demanded and soon refused. At 4:30 am on April 12, 1861, a signal shot was fired high in the air over Ft. Sumter and the assault began. By 2 pm the next day, the garrison was surrendered without the loss of life on either side.

With Ft. Sumter in Confederate hands, the port of Charleston became an irritating loophole in the Federal naval blockade of the Atlantic coast, with 21 Confederate ships leaving the Harbor and 15 entering within a two month period in 1863. Three Federal naval attempts wee made to take the fort, each met with failure. After Union forces captured adjacent Morris Island, cannon bombardment began on August 17, 1863, with almost 1,000 shells fired the first day alone, and over seven million pounds of metal hurled at it, yet the Fort was never surrendered. Twenty months of bombardment had reduced the fort to rubble, but it was only General Sherman's march north from Savannah that prompted the Confederacy to abandon the fort on February 17, 1865.

Ok, that's the history lesson. Quiz later. Much later.

We boarded a ferry at Liberty Square in downtown Charleston and soon docked at Ft Sumter.


Fort Sumter is maintained as a "stabilized ruin". The large black structure was built on the parade ground at the time of the Spanish-American War.


The man credited with firing the first artillery shot of the Civil War.


During the almost two year long bombardment of the fort, sand bags and cotton bales were used to shore up defenses.


In about 1870, clearing and restoration work was performed, but complete rebuilding was impossible.





From the top of Battery Huger looking northeast. Imagine those wall 30 feet higher, with another complete set of cannon on top!


 And the flag still flies!


After returning to the mainland, we walked to Meeting Street and headed south towards Hyman's Seafood Restaurant. One of the best known Charleston seafood restaurants, Hyman's always has a waiting line, but today it was too long for us. Just a few doors north, however, is Sticky Fingers, another Charleston landmark specializing in BBQ, so we forced ourselves to try a small rack of ribs with four signature sauces. Quite enough food for two people! Delicious!


Needing to walk off some of the calories, we took yet another jaunt through downtown Charleston. This is a great walking city, with interesting houses on every block.



Land is a precious commodity here, so it's unusual to see a home with such a beautifully cared for yard. A nice, cool photo to end a warm day in Charleston!


Monday, June 27, 2016

Downtown Charleston, SC

After our visit to the Watermelon Festival, we decided to get involved with Charleston on Sunday. Our rv park is about eleven miles from the Visitor's Center in Charleston, with it's parking lot and trolley stop. There are three free trolley's that run around the main tourist areas of the city, and are an excellent way to access the city without having to find parking at every stop. In addition, we found that if we didn't want to ride the trolley, we could walk, because almost everything is within a short distance.

After getting lost (of course) getting to the Visitor's Center, we parked and went inside to get some info. Leaving with an armload of pamphlets, we jumped on the first trolley we saw and soon found ourselves at Waterfront Park. The day was overcast but warm, so the fountain spray was welcome!


This is a beautiful and historic district of Charleston, with parks and walks along the confluence of the Ashley and Cooper Rivers. This area was devastated during the bombardment by Union forces during the Civil War, but was soon rebuilt even more spectacular than before.


The Battery, which is an area that has been fortified since the founding of Charleston, is also home to some very nice homes. Most of these remain as private residences, but they are extraordinary examples of the Charleston style, which is a fairly narrow building with long verandas on the upper floors to catch the evening breeze.








Not all of the homes are large and impressive, some are small and impressive!


This is possibly the oldest house in Charleston. Built of Black Cypress, it has been definitely dated to 1755, and records suggest it may have been built as early as 1721. The lot was granted to John Stevens in 1682!


Tucked in amongst the tall mansions are some tiny little gems that most likely were slave quarters at one point. Slaves were important to daily household operations as much as they were to field work on plantations, and were generally provided with separate living quarters somewhat distanced from the main house.


Charleston is know as Church City because of the large number of churches in town. It is also known as The Gateway City because it's port is and was a huge trade center. Back in the day, it was rice and cotton, and today it's....well, everything. Charleston is the fourth busiest port in the US and the second busiest on the East Coast.

We decided the city should be called the Crepe Myrtle City since there are hundreds of the beautiful plants in full bloom around the historic district.



Up and down the streets we walked, South Battery, King St, Meeting St., Legare and Broad Streets. Magazine, Queen and Cumberland Streets, walking with our figurative mouths hanging open at the beauty of the homes and the trees and plants. Eventually we found ourselves at the City Market. Six blocks long and 50 feet wide, the market has sellers of anything and everything. From Sweet Grass Gullah baskets to BBQ sandwiches, you can find it here!


We found an unusual round church, with a graveyard that contains stones dating back to 1695! The church is called The Circular Congregational Church and church records indicate that more than a thousand people are buried in the graveyard.



From churches by the dozen,




to the lovely houses on Rainbow Row, where soft pastels please the eye,


we have found Charleston to be an extraordinary city. Wish we had more time, there is so much to see!

Saturday, June 25, 2016

Hampton County Watermelon Festival

Hampton County, SC, is almost 70 miles due west of Charleston. Our friends Jim and Linda whom we met in Savannah, invited us to join them in the town of Hampton, for the Hampton County Watermelon Festival, so off we went!

Our GPS was programmed with the appropriate address, so what could go wrong? Well....

The GPS was technically correct, this is a county highway. However, it definitely is a road less traveled, and certainly doesn't do a black car any good.


Eventually arriving at our destination, the main street of the town of Hampton, and the county courthouse. The courthouse lawn has been transformed into a city of vendors selling food, clothing, and all manner of crafts.


A vendor had a number of Sweetgrass baskets that she has woven. These baskets have their roots in the Gullah culture of the Low Country, where African, Caribbean, and American black cultures have melded into a unique lifestyle know for using available natural products for beautiful crafts. These baskets retail for hundreds of dollars, and we didn't even ask the price of the dozen roses!


The parade was about three miles long, so we took up "residence" in the chairs that Jim had positioned earlier in the day in a shady spot under some trees.


The local Boy Scouts carried the banner at the head of the parade.


Followed by a military band.


The theme of this years parade was "Honoring our Linemen". A tribute to the men and women that keep our electrical grid in operation with very little recognition. One float had an electrical line with laundry!


And another came complete with a mobile pole and a lineman climbing!


After watching the Watermelon Queen and her court pass by, along with the Watermelon Queens of varying ages and from adjacent towns, we were ready something different!


And the Shriners provided the necessary fun!


A contingent of vintage tractors chugged by...some with signs supporting a favorite sports team.


The local car club was ably represented by several outstanding examples of re-engineering.



Jim and Linda took us to one of their favorite barbecue restaurants, Dukes in Walterboro, South Carolina. The pig out front takes a lot of abuse from tourists, I'm sure!


On the way back to Jim and Linda's home, we took a side trip to "The Pond". This is part of a tract of land passed down through generations of family, and now provides a cool weekend retreat from the daily grind. It's a lovely memorial to the family.


A couple of watermelons, two cantaloupes, and a whole bunch of barbecue later, we were on the way back to Charleston. Jim and Linda's generosity is much appreciated. They provided a cool place for Sasha to stay, boiled peanuts for snacking, and home-grown blueberries! We hope to see them again one day.

It's been quite a day! Anyone can go to a fancy restaurant in Charleston, or visit the historic district, but not everyone has the opportunity to enjoy a celebration in a small Low Country town! Good stuff!