Alpine, Texas

This is the gateway to Big Bend National Park, as well as being centrally located to get a taste of West Texas cattle country. We have been told of several interesting things to see in the area, so we decided to stop for a few days after we left Deming, New Mexico.

Alpine is 328 miles south and east of Deming, a trip that should have taken about six hours. Instead, it required more than nine to negotiate. We had chosen to travel through El Paso on a Sunday hoping that the interstate highway would not be as busy as it was the last time we drove through there. Oops.
The local power company decided to reroute power lines over the interstate as part of a major road reconstruction project, and traffic, both east- and westbound came to a complete stop for over an hour. Add another 1/2 hour to get through the backup, and all of a sudden we're pulling into Alpine after six in the evening. We had traveled across some of the most iconic West Texas prairie imaginable, and were ready for a quiet evening.

We're staying at the Lost Alaskan RV Park on Highway 118 just north of Alpine, and a fine park it is. Site C11, where we're parked has a bit of grass, a concrete table, and a nice sized pine tree for shade. The staff is very accommodating, to the point that a gentleman waited for our arrival after the office closed so he could guide us to our site! The Good Sam price is good: in the low $30's, and the other campers are friendly. Sasha has met several new friends, including two other Boston Terriers.

After our late arrival on Sunday, we slept a bit late on Monday. Whether due to the stressful day, or the loss of an hour going into Central Time, we don't know, but we were very tired. Midmorning Monday, however, after a couple of cups of coffee and a good breakfast, we decided to visit one of the local attractions. About 55 miles north of Alpine is the artesian spring named San Solomon Spring. It is now part of a state park, but is a geological anomaly since the surrounding countryside is so completely dry. On the way to the spring, we passed through some interesting rangeland and passed the gates to a number of ranches.

Midway to the village of Balmorhea, where the spring is located, lies the town of Ft Davis. This is a lovely old town, and boasts that the original Ft Davis has been maintained in pristine condition and is open to the public. On the side road to the fort, we came across the court house for Jeff Davis county.

The District Judge had evidently just arrived from the ranch if the mud and dirt on the pickup was any indication!

Ft Davis sits in a pretty valley with awesome rock formations surrounding the town and fort. The 100-year-old Presbyterian Church sits on a hill overlooking town, and backed up to the mountains.

Continuing on, we arrived in Balmorhea, Texas, just south of I 10, west of Odessa. Balmorhea, of course, is the site of San Solomon Springs. Tamed, contained, and beautified by the CCC in the thirties, the springs are now in Balmorhea State Park, which also has a number of camping sites, some with electricity and water, as well as a small hotel. The spring produces 1,200,000 gallons of water per day from an underground acquifer. The water is channeled for use in irrigation, as well as drinking water for nearby towns.

 Leaving the state park, we drove into downtown Balmorhea to rustle up some grub. Hmmm. The town of 476 residents evidently don't require food, drink, gasoline, or human companionship. We didn't see a soul until, on the south side of town, on a side street, we found a restaurant named "La Cueva De Oso", The Bear Den, also called "The cutest little restaurant in Balmorhea". And the only one, apparently…..Lunch was great, but Donna and I allowed as how we're getting a little tired of Mexican food. We've experienced New Mexican food, Mexican food, Tex-Mex food, and probably a few more kinds in there somewhere, and it's time for a change. Lunch at La Cueva was very good, however, with the Chili Relleno Burrito particularly tasty. On the edge of town we glimpsed into the past at an abandoned house, and wondered for a brief moment what became of the family that once lived there.

The late afternoon return drive to Alpine gave us a whole new perspective on the landscape.

And, just starting to bloom, a lonely cactus clings to a hillside.



Our mission today, Tuesday, was back to the west, but on the way out of town we stopped at the Sul Ross campus of the State University. Named for Lawrence Sullivan Ross, a former Texas governor and Civil War Confederate general, the university maintains a wonderful museum focused on the Big Bend area and it's history, geology, flora and fauna.

The first thing that greets the visitor is a large exhibit quoting the first superintendent of Big Bend National Park.

We enjoyed an overview of the Big Bend area, and learned that cattle ranching is now the staple business of the area. A colorful past revolves around cattle and we took note of one story about the "Murder Steer".

Seems that while branding yearling calfs in the area between Fort Davis and Alpine, an unbranded calf was discovered without its mother. Fine Gilliland, who worked for Dubois and Wentworth, one of the largest cattle firms in the country, had been sent to make sure that none of the local ranchers appropriated the company's cattle. Harrison Powe, a Confederate War veteran who had settled in the area claimed ownership of the calf, and on January 28, 1891, an argument began between the two men. When Gilliland attempted to rope the calf, Powe pulled his gun and fired in an attempt to scare the calf away.  Feeling threatened, Gilliland returned fire. After a brief battle, Gilliland shot and killed Powe, mounted up and rode away with Texas Rangers in pursuit. Several days later, the Rangers caught up with Gilliland, and a gun fight ensued, resulting in Gilliland's death.

Meanwhile, the cowboys back at the roundup used a running iron to brand the word "MURDER" on the calfs side, and the date, Jan 12 91 on the other side. Legend has it that the Murder Steer appears whenever a cowboy breaks the law in the Big Bend region.

Back on Highway 20 going west, we came to the Marfa Lights Observation Site. Located about 14 miles west of Alpine and 10 miles east of Marfa, the rest stop/observation platform is located just north of the WW II site of the Marfa Air Base. Perhaps because of that connection, or perhaps because of the local Chamber of Commerce, the site is known for the random appearance of the "Marfa Lights".

Toward the south, where the airfield was located, and generally the area in which the lights are seen, lies a lot of nothing but Chihuahua Desert.

The lights have appeared since the 1880's, and seem to move rapidly and independently. Sometimes colored, sometimes white, they dance about for some time when the night is dark and clear. They only appear about a half dozen times a year, at random intervals and without any rhyme or reason. Atmospheric conditions vary, vehicle lights are not near, and "swamp gas" is definitely out of the 9% humidity picture!.

We were equipped to wait for dark and see what we could see, but the West Texas wind was fetchin' up a storm, so the chances of having a clear night disappeared. We consoled ourselves with dinner at the Reata in Alpine, where Cowboy Cuisine is the order of the day.

The decor was definitely relaxed, and the service wonderful.

Donna satisfied her hunger with a Chicken Fried Steak the size of, well, Texas……

And I ordered the evening special, T-Bone with two green chili and cheese enchiladas on top!

I'm so happy we're in Texas!